A cocktail bar with a cabaret spirit

Initially, we didn't have much budget, and we found this location that wasn't very expensive (editor's note: rue Viollet-le-Duc, Paris 9). The question then arose about what we could do in Pigalle.

One of the positive aspects of the neighborhood was the presence of many cocktail bars, with a clientele for this type of establishment. However, the downside was participating in the gentrification of the area, risking losing part of its identity.

It's great to have a clientele of craft cocktail enthusiasts, but it somewhat diluted the true spirit of Pigalle considering its history. Therefore, we wanted to create a bar true to the spirit of the place, with a cabaret dimension, a significant focus on music, and a sense of fun.

Moreover, some of our friends who perform drag were looking for a place to showcase their talents, rather than regularly renting a venue that wouldn't be specifically dedicated to this scene. So, we drew inspiration from a bar that existed in Berlin in the 70s called Chez Romy Haag. It was a kind of cabaret run by a transgender woman and frequented, among others, by David Bowie and Iggy Pop.

A first thematic menu, inspired by a song

The menu changes twice a year. Previously, the guiding principle was dictated by the seasonality of ingredients, but also by customer preferences. We studied the style of cocktails that were most successful to draw inspiration for future menus.

Generally, we strive to offer a wide range of spirits among the recipes, with a preference for gin, as many of our customers enjoy it in slightly citrusy drinks.

Additionally, we have been offering two draft cocktails for just under a year, and I must say it is really convenient and saves a lot of time.

For this new menu, I wanted, for the first time, to involve the entire team (Joseph Boley, Maelle Lagardère and Kim Milyavskaya). However, the question of the best way to proceed quickly arose.

Indeed, how to find a good connection with the entire menu so that it doesn't feel too disparate? I ultimately found a common thread in a song by Minnie Riperton called "Les Fleurs," as I had attended a performance by a drag queen from Manchester on this song last year.

When you listen to the lyrics, it's an invitation to be yourself, to embrace who you are and let your true nature blossom. It was a theme that aligned with the spirit of Sister Midnight, and I asked the entire team to come up with proposals inspired by this song.

Logically, the new menu features floral cocktails, but not only that. For example, Kim created a cocktail called The White Book, named after a book by Jean Cocteau, inspired by his early gay experiences. The recipe is somewhat floral and herbal, with kefir leaves, but it also incorporates fermented honey with chili, as many customers enjoy Spicy Margaritas. It's a clarified cocktail, thus transparent, with only a piece of clear ice, associated here with the idea of being oneself, in complete transparency.

A welcome "one step further"

We are quite a "niche" bar, and therefore, offering good cocktails is a prerequisite - so that customers don't leave disappointed - but it's not enough. The atmosphere also contributes significantly to the success of the cocktail experience.

Sister Midnight is a place that evokes the 70s, which is why the first menus were heavily influenced by references to that decade, with cocktails featuring Galliano like the Yellow Bird.

We also offered a sort of Blue Hawaiian, but with mezcal and clarified. Even today, there is still a nod to that era.

Thus, on the new menu, we find the Wicked Kiss, a recipe with typical ingredients served in a neon glass with small red lips. Music also plays an important role, and there are always little nods to it on the menu.

But for us, the question of hospitality, having attentive service, is central. Our clientele consists of local residents, expatriates, but also - increasingly - English and American tourists.

The latter are particularly sensitive to this issue, so I believe it's important to go "one step further" to ensure they are truly happy when they leave the bar.

For example, a few nights ago, an English lady was there with her family for her birthday, and I heard she would turn 60 at midnight. So, I prepared four glasses of "bubbles" for them to toast at midnight. It allows for a small moment to be marked in someone's life. Since it's quite tough for most people now, if we can make a small gesture, it brings joy.

Interactions with the Red House

I am not associated with Red House, but Joe Boley (editor's note: co-founder of both establishments), and I wanted to open a place that belonged to both of us, to have a bit more financial stability. I love the Red House and its somewhat "dive bar" vibe, with good cocktails, but I wanted a more traditional cocktail bar.

The two places are quite different, but they attract a type of clientele that appreciates quality cocktails. When customers from the Red House are in the neighborhood, especially for a concert, they come here for a drink, and regulars from Sister will go there to enjoy tacos, for example.

The cocktail creation process is quite separate between the two establishments, but we sometimes discuss ideas among ourselves; finding that a recipe is good, but it fits better with the other bar.

At one point, we had a shared cocktail: it was created at Sister Midnight and was quite successful. Since it was based on mezcal, we thought it could work with the style of the Red House, and it worked well in both bars.

We have, with a few exceptions, the same products, but there are fewer requests for whiskey here.

Knowing how to offer regular appointments

Right now, as many people have less money, we offer the Martini Monday deal at 10 euros. Monday night is often the quietest of the week, and many industry professionals don't work that day. So we thought of creating a nice recurring event to encourage people to come have a drink here.

Saturday, on the other hand, is dedicated to drag shows. The part of the clientele that comes for cocktails is surprised to find there is a show, and those who come solely to see the performance don't necessarily expect to arrive at a cocktail bar. In the middle are those who are there for the entire experience. Now, this last category makes up the largest part of the Saturday night clientele.

At first, the two types of clientele didn't necessarily understand what was happening because it was new to have both good cocktails in a cabaret atmosphere. Now, more and more people are getting familiar with this concept, which makes me happy.

Signature cocktails

We have two signature cocktails. They are offered among the creations of the new menus, without any particular distinguishing signs.

First, the Sister Midnight. For the story, we went to the Montmartre museum and saw among the exhibits, the "coco" vendors. Appearing at the end of the 18th century, these people carried a sort of fountain on their backs containing a very popular drink at the time, the "coco," which was a mix of fresh spices with lemon, water, and sugar. So, we created a drink based on vodka with a syrup made from jasmine tea, cardamom, and star anise. Initially, we used lemon, but now the recipe has changed to serve it on draft, and we use an acidifier instead of lemon. This cocktail has been on the menu permanently since the beginning.

And we have another cocktail titled I Wanna Be Your (Salty) Dog, which is a bit of a "mashup" between a Gimlet and a Salty Dog, made with gin, Aperol, grapefruit, lemon, pomegranate molasses, with a Himalayan salt rim on the glass. It has been in the top 3 of sales since our second menu.

The Sister Midnight cocktail is now on draft, and customers love it. But the Salty, we sometimes think we’ve had enough of making it, but we can never take it off the menu. We discussed this possibility with regulars, and they were adamant: it should definitely not be removed! These two cocktails are in the top 3 of sales, not always during the week, but on Friday and Saturday nights, they always are.

A look at the Manchester cocktail scene

When I lived in Manchester, the pub style, where you drink alcohol with mixers, prevailed. The city had a few small craft cocktail bars, but it remained something quite popular, with the cocktail style of the 90s.

But today, Manchester is experiencing a real boom, with many bars opening in recent years. To name a few: there’s Schofield's, a very traditional style bar, somewhat in the spirit of the American Bar of the Savoy in London. The bartenders wear shirts and white aprons, the service is excellent, and the menu mainly offers classics.

Among the most recent, Stray opened at the end of 2023. I went there a few weeks ago during my last visit, and it’s really very good. I also love Red Light, which is an inclusive gay bar offering quality cocktails and top-notch service. By the way, we are going to do a guest shift with them: they will come to Paris, and we will go to Manchester.

Journey from Manchester to Paris

I moved from Manchester in 2009 after studying photography. I was in a relationship, but after the breakup, I found myself alone in Paris. I needed to earn a living, as photography wasn't enough, and I started looking for work.

It turns out that one of my friends knew Josh Fontaine (editor's note: co-founder with Carina Soto Velásquez of the Quixotic group, which includes, among others, Candelaria and Le Mary Céleste). I asked them if they were looking for someone to do extra shifts, and that’s how it started. I had never had bartender experience before, just a few extra shifts in pubs in England. Then, I went to Glass (editor's note: another bar from Quixotic, now closed).

Finishing my work late at night left me no time to take photos. So, I decided to take a break, but the need for money resurfaced, and I started doing extra shifts with Joe at the Red House. We thought we could work together, and I eventually realized that, yes, I was a bartender.

Today, I am at Sister Midnight during service four times a week, but not necessarily all the time behind the bar. There are four of us on the team now, and I can choose some nights to work the floor; it's a bit quieter, and I can chat with customers.

If I were to meet myself on the street five years ago, I would advise myself to start practicing a sport right away and not just now; to take care of my health: drink less, sleep more. When you are both an owner and behind the bar, you get up in the morning, have breakfast, and immediately start working. These are very long days. Therefore, I have no intention of opening a new establishment (laughs).