A bar open from noon to midnight… and beyond

Midi-Minuit is a bar open, as its name suggests, non-stop from noon to midnight, offering the possibility to enjoy a cocktail in the middle of the day. Given the neighborhood we’re in, and with the restaurant on-site, we wanted to create a place that’s open, where you can drop by for both private and professional get-togethers. That’s one of the reasons we decided on an extensive alcohol-free selection, though it’s not the only one. I’ve expanded this category with a wider variety of options depending on the time of day.

The venue’s ambiance is intended to evolve throughout the day—much like the bar menu. It starts with music that leans toward jazz, but we also want Midi-Minuit to come alive at night, which is why we’re not strictly bound to closing at midnight, especially thanks to the ballroom of the private mansion that connects to the bar. It was important to me not to open a bar de restaurant, but a bar in its own right, and I’m happy that Alain Ducasse also supports this vision. The place needs its own life, its own independence; it should be lively and festive, as it’s rooted in the art of joy. Hence, Midi-Minuit can also shift into another vibe, hosting late-night dancing events. That’s one of the aspects of this project that excited me: it’s simultaneously a daytime spot, filled with natural light from large windows overlooking a green square, and it can easily transition to a nightlife vibe in a neighborhood with few cocktail bars. We hope people will be on board.

Lastly, new spaces in the private mansion will open a bit later—in spring—but it’s still too early to talk about that.

A cocktail menu without an overbearing concept

I’m not a fan of highly conceptual menus, as they can sometimes be limiting. Of course, I like having a guiding thread, provided it isn’t too restrictive; I allow myself some freedom. However, I always pay attention to a variety of ingredients, spirits, and different types of cocktails. That said, the Midi-Minuit menu does have an underlying theme, inspired by Alain Ducasse and Chef Christophe Saintagne: joy—which, in my opinion, is the essence of a cocktail.

Building on that theme, I introduced the idea of synergy among various arts, incorporating many forms of craftsmanship—from design and cooking to glassmaking. For now, Midi-Minuit offers nine cocktails on the menu, although about twenty were created initially, with seventeen approved. I chose the drinks that fit the season and complement the kitchen’s approach. I want to test what suits the place and the moment.

Nonetheless, certain cocktails, like the Negroni JMF (note: a nod to Jean-Michel Frank, a major figure in the decorative arts of the interwar period who was behind the innovative interior design of the private mansion of Charles and Marie-Laure de Noailles, where the Maison Baccarat is now located) and the Epinal, already have a strong identity and could—over time—become house classics.

Regarding the Epinal, I’ve had this cocktail in mind since the inception of the Baccarat project. It was created for a specific glass—the Narcisse—in which it’s served, reflecting the idea of synergy among different crafts—glassmaking, cuisine, precision ice carving—to produce a French-style Martini with Provençal notes. But you have to step back once the menu is in place and let it live—even if you have personal favorites.

However, I don’t blindly follow what sells, and if two cocktails of the same style both get popular, I might remove one to create a bit of longing and encourage people to discover new flavors.

Even though Midi-Minuit isn’t strictly a restaurant bar, we form a big team here, and I want the staff to relate to certain cocktails. Also, for the record, we have a great spirits selection, focused on whiskies and rums for tasting.

Independence from the restaurant that doesn’t rule out collaboration

Midi-Minuit is truly independent of the restaurant. However, working in an establishment with a kitchen does play a significant role. It doubles the amount of equipment available, and we share knowledge—and sometimes ideas.

For example, if I need a particular technique, the kitchen can help me out.

I didn’t necessarily plan on creating pairings with the kitchen, but we do offer a non-alcoholic cocktail pairing with a dish—which is quite rare—as part of a restaurant menu. This allows you to have a professional lunch while enjoying a drink-dish experience that’s entirely spirit free. This was something I wanted, to encourage people to consider this option and discover that non-alcoholic drinks can be just as refined.

Of course, alcoholic cocktails can also be served in the restaurant, but they’re not tied to the kitchen.

Baccarat glassware: its influence on cocktail creation and working with ice

I spent a lot of time focusing on the glassware because it plays an important role. Just like with wine, the vessel affects the taste and aroma of a cocktail. Here, at Baccarat, I couldn’t finalize my cocktails before knowing which glasses we’d be using, because the glass acts like a showcase. Some drinks were even canceled or changed because they didn’t suit the available glassware—the selection isn’t unlimited. This is far removed from what’s currently trendy in the mixology world, with its minimalist leanings. Also, these glasses weren’t designed with the evolution of the ice in mind, especially using clear ice.

Now, we think a lot about how the glass accommodates the clear ice. We turned this challenge into a strength. That’s why we work on the ice (note: supplied by The Nice Company)—like a few other Parisian bars that have an ice program. For us, the shape and cut of the ice pay tribute to the crystal and how light refracts off the cube, so reminiscent of the crystal’s craft you see in chandeliers. The ice training was heavily guided by Raphaël Blanc, drawing on his previous experience in other establishments like the Sherry Butt.

Working in tandem with Raphaël Blanc

It’s really pleasant to work as a duo when things click so well. Within the Alain Ducasse group, Raphaël is in charge of mixology, while I am the head bartender in collaboration and partnership with Alain Ducasse for everything related to the artistic direction and creation of the cocktails. Raphaël is truly indispensable for me; we work extremely closely. He ensures that everything goes smoothly and that ideas are implemented. Here, he’ll always be the number-one reference, because he has the most experience. But that doesn’t take away from his many other responsibilities within the group.

A creative process under the sign of freedom

I’m free to choose my direction. Then we have a group tasting with Alain Ducasse and also Chef Christophe Saintagne, at the end of which the recipes are validated.

Generally, my proposals have received few vetoes. When he chose me as head of cocktails, Alain Ducasse knew my preferences—which are close to his: a palate geared toward acidity and bitterness, with pronounced edges.

Most of this takes place at Combat. We do a tasting there with the chef, where I typically present far more recipes than needed, and together we find the common thread. We approve or adjust. I also need someone else’s perspective, because I develop everything on my own, so I have Raphaël taste them afterward, then finally Alain Ducasse.

Launch of the Signatures in Alain Ducasse’s establishments

The main objective of this partnership with Alain Ducasse was to launch the Signatures, meaning a cocktail menu available in all Alain Ducasse locations. Everything has been designed to offer cutting-edge mixology that can be served by sommeliers or the dining room staff alike.

All the restaurants will have clear ice, along with glassware designed for cocktails. This will start with the group’s establishments in the Paris region. Alain Ducasse explained that if we were to “sign” together, it had to have tangible follow-through, with a real offering, rather than just a superficial communications stunt.