Equinoxe: a menu around the concept of cyclicality

The inspiration came from a Korean film by Kim Ki-duk, "Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter... and Spring", which revolves around the idea of cycles and somewhat reflects Nietzsche's concept of eternal recurrence. This inspired me to create a menu based on cyclicality: not changing the entire menu at once, but rather introducing three cocktails every equinox and solstice.

I enjoy having a conceptual menu because it provides a framework during the creative process. When we present the menu to customers, they should understand the identity and philosophy that drive the establishment and what we wish to offer them.

This new menu was launched on March 21 for the spring equinox, and the next change will occur on June 21, during the summer solstice. Ingredients that are now out of season - like asparagus and kiwi - are removed in favor of products at the peak of their seasonality, thus unleashing their aromatic power: peach, blueberry.

There are three cocktails that change every three months. It’s an evolving principle. However, not all 12 cocktails on the menu are designed with seasonal fruits or vegetables. Some recipes are not dependent on them and are meant to stay, such as the Prince - a Martini with coriander - and the Giove, a Highball with shochu.

A description of the cocktails in three points

In the previous menu, we had a particular concept where no ingredients were announced, and customers generally played along. However, they weren't really ready for a complete absence of indications and at least wanted to know the main spirit, which wasted a bit of time for the bartenders.

I thought that three pieces of information would be sufficient, plus the shape of the glass as a drawing. The current menu states the alcohol, the main ingredient, and an adjective that best represents the cocktail (sparkling, floral…). It’s something quite dynamic. With at least three pieces of information, you can already dream and get an idea of what you will find in your glass.

Inspiration and creation process

There are no strict rules for the inspiration of a recipe. One can start from a recently discovered spirit, an ingredient, a flavor, or even a syrup.
Sometimes, I have ideas for specific flavors knowing that the pairing could work.

For example, for the cocktail Gong, I wanted to create a Milk Punch Bloody Mary without using tomato juice. So we used a French liqueur made from tomatoes, Amour Matador from H. Theoria, with tequila and mezcal. We infused and distilled it with roasted peppers, which allowed us to obtain a powerful pepper spirit that somewhat replaced the umami aspect of tomato juice. Additionally, we made a teriyaki sauce with coriander, mayonnaise, and soy sauce. I had imagined that recipe without considering the spirit. In contrast, the cocktail Giove originated from discovering a malted barley shochu with a pronounced popcorn flavor. Right away, that gave me the idea for a Highball.

The importance of music in the cocktail experience

Equinoxe presents itself like a vinyl record, with the menu inside, like a record booklet. This musical nod, with graphics by Aude Surville (Note: current Brand Ambassador for Diplomatico), stems from my early realization of the importance of music in a bar, since I started working in this field over 12 years ago to be precise.

My father had a bar where I managed the music a bit; it was my passion. Since then, I have always believed that the quality of the cocktail is very important, but also the atmosphere we create, the contact established with the customer, and especially the quality of the sound.

For me, even if a cocktail has a small flaw, if the place has excellent sound, you can still have a very good experience. People still leave with a good memory of the bar.

At Bluebird, the musical style is dedicated to jazz during the week, with a gradual shift to more upbeat music on the weekend: soul music in the early evening, followed by disco-funk. Indeed, switching from Miles Davis at midnight on Friday night would not create the same atmosphere.

Interaction with the kitchen of Hank’s Corner restaurant.

Hank’s Corner opened 4 or 5 months ago (Note: by the same owner as Bluebird, Pasa Omerasevic). Our goal is to have zero waste, using ingredients that the kitchen does not use to make syrups or garnishes.

Sometimes, the movement goes the other way: we use a product, like asparagus for example, which will later be used in the kitchen.

Being able to work with a chef is an asset because the kitchen has developed techniques that we can draw inspiration from. Sometimes, the chef even guides us in a certain direction, suggesting ideas that a bartender might not have thought of.

The bar offers snacks, but if customers are looking for a more substantial meal, we advise them to go next door, and we can bring them cocktails on-site. The team is considering, in the long term, a form of collaboration around the idea of food-cocktail pairings, even though we are currently focusing on our respective areas.

In my opinion, it is important today to offer customers both liquid and solid quality. I cannot imagine a very good bar without such a proposition, even though it is not impossible, provided one is very focused on the quality of the cocktails. However, if we can offer both, that’s ideal.

Highlighting the best spirits from each country

The sherry from Jerez is the product we use the most. It is a taste marker of the establishment. It was already present when I arrived at Bluebird, but today, we have Spanish Fino Lustau everywhere. It’s an ingredient whose nutty, complex notes I really appreciate, and I couldn't work without it now, as it fits all types of cocktails.

For example, we offer a Martini on the menu with Fino infused with black pepper, juniper, and coriander. It’s a drink with somewhat herbal notes.

Generally speaking, in the team - Etienne Joly, Henrique Neiva da Lage, and Viola Barzagli - we are keen to highlight the best products from each country: more and more Japanese - like shochu - but also, for France, H Theoria - inspired by perfumes - which can be found in two cocktails on the menu, as well as cognac or products from Christian Drouin, which I really appreciate.

An "Italian bar school"?

Italian bartenders are present all over the world because I think we are quite skilled. If I think about what could correspond to an "Italian bar school," it would be the importance given to hospitality and welcoming. Before even serving a cocktail to the customer, knowing how to say hello with a smile, serving a glass of water; the person must feel at home above all else. Striving for perfect service and combining that with the right choice of music, plus a good cocktail. If we achieve that, it means we are doing our job well.

To all these elements, I would add the mastery of classic cocktails. I can easily imagine a bartender - wherever they are in the world - capable of excellent hospitality and very well executing the classics. Those would be the two markers of a possible Italian school.

A look at the current cocktail scene in Italy, and Genoa in particular.

Previously, Italian bartenders mainly worked abroad - especially in London - where they contributed to creating the scene, like Simone Caporale, four-time winner of the title of best bartender at the Artesian.

Today, there is change, even though I cannot yet compare the Italian scene with that of London, which still seems to be the best. However, the transalpine bars are developing well, like Milan, which has about fifteen or twenty high-quality bars, or Rome, with the recent Drink Kong - one of my favorite establishments in Italy - or Jerry Thomas. In Naples, there is also Antiquario. The country has 5 bars ranked in the 50 Best, so we are doing quite well.

Genoa, where I am from, is a bit behind on this issue. I had the chance to work in the best cocktail bar in the city: Les Rouges. It’s a French-inspired establishment - as its name indicates - located in the heart of the very beautiful historic center, in an 18th-century palace adorned with ancient paintings. The style is very classic, and that’s where I began my initiation. Then, there are two or three nice bars around Portofino, but I hope this can develop over the years, as I know several bartenders from Genoa living abroad who could work towards that. Moreover, some local products - with which I grew up - deserve to be highlighted, such as Amaro Camatti or Corochinato, an aperitif that can replace Aperol to make a Genoese version of Spritz. I would like to be able to bring them outside of Italy eventually to make them known.

Two Daiquiris, passport to Paris

My father had bars when I was a child, and I started helping him at the age of 16 while playing football. I thought I would become a professional player, although the idea of becoming a bartender one day was not entirely foreign to me. Therefore, I began to develop these two professional aspects concurrently. Despite a certain level of footballer, I wasn't really making a living, and the cocktail world was increasingly interesting to me. So I started working at the bar Les Rouges where my passion was affirmed.

Later, I worked in establishments on the coast near Genoa, where I met my current boss: Pasa Omerasevic. He had come to greet one of my colleagues who had worked for four years at the Syndicat in Paris. I was at the bar and had the opportunity to make two Daiquiris for Pasa, who then offered me to join him in Paris.

After Covid, I wanted to change cities, to take on a new challenge. Without much thought, I took a plane the following week and found myself in France, not speaking the language and with three words of English. I started my job feeling right at home at Bluebird, with its ambiance inspired by 1960s Los Angeles, the presence of music, and I stayed.

Living abroad, learning French fascinated me. I really liked France; I have been here for three years now, and I am happy!

Bluebird: 12, rue Saint-Bernard; 75011 Paris
Open every day.

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