What's the point in discovering a new place at the forefront of its craft and, as is often the case, slightly ahead of its time? This time, a great deal. I believe De Vie serves as a clear barometer of the current state of the bar scene in France—and, by extension, worldwide. Ravaged by Covid and struggling to find qualified staff, people passionate enough to pour their heart and soul into a career that is incredibly rich in human connections yet physically and mentally grueling. It can feel like the golden age of French bars has passed, taking its hip factor with it.

But from my perspective, the reality is very different. The logical evolution, after the discovery, the wonder, and the normalization of cocktails in France, is rationalization. Everything that starts out as elitist in the culinary world eventually gets commodified and simplified, to be more widely accessible. It’s no surprise, given the current landscape, that draft cocktails, bottled cocktails, festival cocktails, cocktails in PMU bars, concept bars, friends’ hangouts, novices in their living rooms, the biggest Best 50 award winners—everyone is getting in on the action.

If anyone still doubts it, cocktail consumption in France is still far lower than it could be, because this culture is simply too new here for us to have reached saturation.

This is exactly where seemingly opposite trends emerge, though they’re actually fueled by the same forces. The neutrality and normalization of cocktails will inevitably fuel polar extremes, especially in a society that is already very prone to polarization.

We’re seeing the rise of excellent so-called PMU or counter-style bars whose sole ambition is to give you a great time. On the opposite end, there are bars pushing mixology concepts ever further, sometimes to the point of alienating their own followers. All have their merit, and their patrons have expectations that align with them.

From the perspective of bar owners, this acceleration raises plenty of questions. In the past, simply riding the wave and using the same playbook as everyone else was enough. There was no need to stand out because the cocktail itself was new, appealing, and interesting for you.

Yet weary from competing for accolades and the spotlight, an entire generation hit the Covid-19 wall, confronted with a harsh reality: not only is the cocktail world far from being a cure-all, but the endless wave of innovation has also fatigued the public, starting with the very players in an industry in constant turmoil.

So where does De Vie fit into all of this? Alex Francis and Barney O’kane have chosen to swim both with and against the current. In a world still too often convinced that selling one’s soul is the key to profitability, they instead bet on terroir and authenticity to build a rich experience—not only in taste but one that can completely transcend any storytelling. Why devise some flashy presentation when you can simply draw on the everyday lives of the producers, suppliers, and partners you choose to work with, to stock a place that is both your livelihood and your second skin?

No brand is really on display, and there’s no typical gimmick or signature prop. De Vie is complex in its simplicity. A place, people, flavor. And that’s it. It’s an extension of the team, with processes and a mindset that’s neither forced, pretentious, nor fake—natural and therefore self-evident. Whether you like it or not, the beauty of a place like this lies entirely in the harmony between the concept and its execution.

If there was any doubt, you can indeed be independent, offer a concept that’s as refined as it is beautiful, meeting the expectations of the most demanding and enthusiastic connoisseurs, all without compromising on any aspect of quality in sourcing or in the choice of producers and artisans at every level.

Maybe, in the end, it simply needed to be done.

And now De Vie is off to the races.